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Flights: All flights will start with an international connection into Oslo. Depending on your flight arrival you will spend a night in Oslo or continue on to Tromsoe or Longyearben.  Most cruises will require an overnight stay at some point before boarding the ship.  SAS services both Tromsoe and Longyearbyen.  The planes are 737 jets.  The flight to Longyearbyen stops at Tromsoe and you do de-plane clear customs and check your bags again.   Flight time from Oslo to Tromsoe and from Tromsoe to Longyearbyen are both about 90 minutes long.  If you cannot buy these flights in conjunction with your international ticket you can purchase your flights on line at the SAS website. The flights are always very full this time of year so do not delay in getting your reservations.

Expedition Itinerary-the itinerary of every trip will be different depending on the weather and ice conditions.

On an early trip in June we stayed on the western side of the island and we were able to make many landings.  We also went North until we hit the ice cap so you could see ice as far as you could see.  There was more ice around and many of the fjords and the eastern side of Spitzbergen island were totally inaccessible and packed with ice. On this trip we only saw one polar bear but had some great landings. 

On the second to last trip in August we were able to circumnavigate not just the main Island of Spitzbergen but go around the permanent eastern ice cap of Austfonna on the island of Nordaustlandet   No ship has done for two years and this is new territory for many of the expedition staff as well. On this trip we saw 24 polar bears.

 The calendars and highlights of both of our personal trips are detailed below as this became quite long I have the June 2009 trip below and here is a link to the August 2010 trip.

LINK TO THE AUGUST 2010 - TROMSOE TO LONGYEARBYEN CRUISE

JUNE 17 - 24 - Longyearbyen to Longyearbyen

Wednesday, June 17th, 2009 - Longyearbyen
This is the main town and commercial airport for the Svalbard Islands. A small place that is basically an old coal mining town but that is growing in tourism.  Only the very hearty people could live here year round.  The town has quite a few shops, most selling the type of clothing that is necessary here, windbreakers, waterproof clothing. The favorite restaurant in town is called KROA.  We checked it out and it had a nice environment, a very authentic feeling, sitting on seal skins with wooden tables.  Everyone we asked suggested we eat here. We all had pizzas (about $15 for a large pizza) and they were good, not spectacular but I do no think you will find spectacular restaurants here. We stayed one night at the Spitsbergen Hotel at the end of our cruise that had basic rooms but comfortable. There is a restaurant at the hotel but it was very expensive and those that ate there said it was acceptable but $150 for dinner for two with no wine. There are numerous day trips out of Longyearbyen, dog sledding, walks, kayaking and outdoor activities. I would not suggest spending a night here post cruise but simply flying home directly from the cruise. 

Thursday, June 18th, 2009 - Burgerbukta, Hornsund

 

This is a beautiful fjord with two main glaciers and beautiful craggy mountains all around you as you load in your zodiacs and take off for a zodiac ride. There is no landing here but they do stay out with the zodiacs for about an hour and a half. 

This is a good area to see polar bears and we did see a bear very quickly. The naturalists thought it was a young male.  The bear at the closest point was about 200 yards away and quite magnificent standing on the rocks. He was looking right at us, it was an awesome sight.  Then he started to walk over the rocks and headed up the glacier.   On a different glacier you could see the tracks of where he slid down the hill to the water and another zodiac saw this activity. Of course the water is where the food for the bears is located so they do stay around the shoreline. . 

Just a few days ago this bay was solid sea ice but it now in early June it is breaking up into a passable passage. The zodiac made its way around the flat ice pieces and I think our driver was having fun moving in between the ice.  The day was SO perfect, the water completely calm and all the mountains were reflecting in the water.  The mountains remind me of Antarctica and it is a really beautiful fjord and the Polar Bear sighting made it very special. 

Gasamna, Hornsund

 
. The expedition staff check out the landing area to be sure it is bear free and then you can go ashore in the zodiacs.  This is a walk on a rocky and snowy area where an old whaling station operated in the early 1900s. There was a ramshackle hut that one man lived in alone for four years. I cannot imagine being so isolated for so many years. 

The scenery was of course beautiful surrounded by mountains.  The geology of the area is interesting and the naturalists can explain how the area was formed. There are glaciers in the area and snow covered mountains.  Other than a few arctic terns nesting there was not a lot of wildlife activity.  The polar bear experts with guns were protecting the landing area our sacrificial lambs. 

Friday, June 19th, 2009 - 14th July Glacier and Bird Hills

  We arrived on a perfect day.  No wind, scattered clouds and very calm water.  This is a beautiful spot.  The 14th July Glacier is wide and right at the waters edge.  You can actually walk up on the glacier. The walk from the landing spot to the foot of the glacier is about 20 minutes, this is over a very rocky area with snow and boggy places. There is a lot of moss in this area.  This is not difficult but extremely uneven and you can find your self sinking down in the snow or bog so you must be careful and those with any walking difficulty would find this difficult.  Once you reach the foot of the glacier it is another 20 minutes to walk and stand on the glacier.  Some of this is quite steep.  The view from the glacier was great and the area had black ice.  This is where the ice is so translucent that it picks up the black ground at the base and the ice looks really black. Quite a unique thing to see. 

The bird hills are in the other direction and the hills are teeming with birds of many species.  However they are very high so you cannot really see the birds very well except for the noise and activity level of the nesting birds.  In this same area you can usually see some reindeer and they were in residence during our visit.   

This is a really nice landing. The combination of the mountains, the large glacier, green mossy areas and the blue water of the fjord make a stunning landscape

Blomstrand, Halve
This is a landing all about Granite.  A company spent a lot of money setting up a granite production company in this area.  Unfortunately the granite was not of good quality and crumbled and the company went bankrupt.  This area has the remains of the huts and a lot of the equipment left from the granite operation.  Entering this area was very scenic, there is a Russian research center and a small town directly across from the area where the ship had its landing. The little town is called New London and we did not visit the town as we will be visitinganother small settlement later on in the cruise.

Saturday, June 20th, 2009 - Heading 80 Degrees North

  This morning at 8.00 am we passed 80 degrees North. The sun was shining the ice was everywhere it was truly spectacular. We got to North 80 degrees, 10 minutes.  There was no wind, not a ripple in the water and larges pieces of the permanent ice shelf all around us as the Prince Albert ll edged further north. There was a walrus on one of the flows but it was too far to really see.  We did at one point have seal on each side of the ship (they appeared to be much larger seals here than in Antarctica) and a pilot whale in front of the ship.  A fantastic morning.

The Red Fjord

  As we headed back to the Svalbard Islands the weather remained beautiful and there was barely a cloud in the sky. Totally still, all the mountains were reflecting in the water, icebergs, it was gorgeous sailing into the Red Fjord.  It is called the Red Fjord as the sand on the beach areas is actually red.  In this fjord you go on a zodiac ride.  We found polar bear tracks all along the water edge for quite a distance with arctic fox tracks following. The fox follows the polar bear and when the polar bear kills and then leaves the scene the fox scavenges the remains. Timing is so critical; these were fairly fresh tracks if only we had been here when the Polar Bear was here. 

Sunday, June 21st -Smeerenburgoldden

  The landing this morning was to an area that 200 people lived who were engaged in whale blubber industry.  There are the remains of whale blubber ovens that were still very well preserved. It is hard to believe that this many people once lived in this remote spot.  It was still a sunny day but it felt cooler as there was a light wind blowing.   

Magdalena Fjord
This afternoon we cruised to the Magdalena Fjord. This is one of the most visited fjords on Spitzbergen island. A huge glacier is at the head of the fjord and the scenery is really majestic.  A walrus was on an ice flow but a little too far away to get a good picture.  

Monday, June 22nd - Ahlstrandodden, Van Keulenfjord

 

Van Keulenfjord is 35 kilometers into Spitzbergen.  Its inner reaches are rarely visited by tourists, but the entrance area near Bellsund has very attractive scenery and tundra that is inviting for walks of various durations. The south side of the Van Keulenfjord is part of the South Spitsbergen National Park. 

As we landed we viewed a huge amount of whale bones dating back to the 16th century when this area was used for harvesting beluga whales that used this shallow area to rub themselves on the gravel and rid their bodies of parasites.  As the whales entered the shallow area they were netted and harvested in great quantities. 

We took a walk on the tundra that was really fun and very spongy to walk on.  Certain areas were quite wet so you did have to be careful it was quite boggy. The flowers were just beginning to bloom and hot pink saxifrage flowers and yellow arctic buttercups were seen all over the area. These are supposed to be in full bloom in early to mid July and give carpets of color in contrast to the white ice and snow.  The polar bear guards were on duty protecting our perimeter as we spend about an hour walking the area.  During our walk many varieties of birds were flying over head and landing on the tundra. 

At the landing spot was a wooden hut that is still used by a vacationing family. It used to be a trappers hut.  The windows had nails sticking straight out to stop polar bears from trying to break into the windows as they would encounter the nails and back off the attack.  There were heavy beams angling out from the building to make it difficult for the polar bears to push on the sides of the building. We found this to be an interesting spot to visit.  

Bellsund

 

This afternoon was a prime area for polar bears and ice.  We did not see any polar bears and you could tell the guides were a little surprised. It was obvious that they anticipated a polar bear sighting. 

However it was still a great days outing. We rode the zodiac around wonderful ice formations. There are two glaciers here coming together and pushing each other and the ice is a combination of the blue ice you often see but with dark areas of gravel which are quite black from the activity of the two glaciers colliding. I found this contrast fascinating. This was different from any glacier I have seen before.  Instead of dropping to the water it was spread out over a huge flat area with giant pinnacles of ice sticking straight up from the floor of the glacier.  Truly memorable and like nothing I had ever seen before. This was a great afternoon zodiac ride.

Tuesday June 23rd -Poolepynten

  This morning we boarded the zodiacs on another glorious day and went to the see the walrus. A very short 3 minute tender ride and we were on shore.  The arctic terns were nesting along the beach and when you get too close to their eggs they will dive bomb and attack.  The guides held up sticks as they always go for the highest point. So unscathed we walked past the nesting turns. It was amazing to see their activity as the protected their nest sites.  On the way we saw a few walrus at water edge and in the water and we passed by these fairly quickly to get to the main group.  There were a lot of walrus all in a big pile of blubber and tusks.  Basically resting after coming ashore tusks and flippers and big bodies all converged and it was hard to tell one animal from another.  On the edges some stirred, scratched and generally flopped around.  The bear guide took a few of us upwind not a pretty smell!  This was the first time I have seen walrus in the wild so I really enjoyed the morning. 

Barentsburg

 

The final afternoon landing was at a town called Barentsburg.  This is an active coal mining operation and the town is totally Russian.  It is like stepping back in time.  A depressing town it would be hard to imagine living here.  The local families put on a Russian folk show and these were not professional entertainers just inhabitants of the town. It lasted about 30 minutes and was pretty fascinating. HUGE spotlights that were probably last seen in the USA about 20 or 30 years ago. Flashing Christmas lights were a highlight of the stage set.  Just to see the effort that they put into the performance it was charming.  There were a few items for sale nothing very significant. We walked the town and visited the tiny church and the hotel.  It was an interesting stop just to see a town like this actually exists.  I would suggest going ashore, it does not take much time and I enjoyed seeing this place.