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Flights:
All flights will start with an international connection into
Oslo. Depending on your flight arrival you will spend a
night in Oslo or continue on to Tromsoe or Longyearben.
Most cruises will require an overnight stay at some point
before boarding the ship. SAS services both Tromsoe
and Longyearbyen. The planes are 737 jets. The
flight to Longyearbyen stops at Tromsoe and you do de-plane
clear customs and check your bags again. Flight
time from Oslo to Tromsoe and from Tromsoe to Longyearbyen
are both about 90 minutes long. If you cannot buy
these flights in conjunction with your international ticket
you can purchase your flights on line at the SAS website.
The flights are always very full this time of year so do not
delay in getting your reservations.
Expedition Itinerary-the
itinerary of every trip will be different depending on the
weather and ice conditions.
On an early trip in June
we stayed on the western side of the island and we were able
to make many landings. We also went North until we hit
the ice cap so you could see ice as far as you could see.
There was more ice around and many of the fjords and the
eastern side of Spitzbergen island were totally inaccessible
and packed with ice. On this trip we only saw one polar bear
but had some great landings.
On the second to last trip
in August we were able to circumnavigate not just the main
Island of Spitzbergen but go around the permanent eastern
ice cap of Austfonna on the island of Nordaustlandet
No ship has done for two years and this is new territory for
many of the expedition staff as well. On this trip we saw 24
polar bears.
The calendars and
highlights of both of our personal trips are detailed below
as this became quite long I have the June 2009 trip below
and here is a link to the August 2010 trip.
LINK TO THE AUGUST 2010 - TROMSOE TO LONGYEARBYEN CRUISE
JUNE 17 - 24 -
Longyearbyen to Longyearbyen
Wednesday, June 17th,
2009 - Longyearbyen
This is the main town and commercial airport for the
Svalbard Islands. A small place that is basically an old
coal mining town but that is growing in tourism. Only
the very hearty people could live here year round. The
town has quite a few shops, most selling the type of
clothing that is necessary here, windbreakers, waterproof
clothing. The favorite restaurant in town is called KROA.
We checked it out and it had a nice environment, a very
authentic feeling, sitting on seal skins with wooden tables.
Everyone we asked suggested we eat here. We all had pizzas
(about $15 for a large pizza) and they were good, not
spectacular but I do no think you will find spectacular
restaurants here. We stayed one night at the Spitsbergen
Hotel at the end of our cruise that had basic rooms but
comfortable. There is a restaurant at the hotel but it was
very expensive and those that ate there said it was
acceptable but $150 for dinner for two with no wine. There
are numerous day trips out of Longyearbyen, dog sledding,
walks, kayaking and outdoor activities. I would not suggest
spending a night here post cruise but simply flying home
directly from the cruise.
Thursday,
June 18th, 2009 -
Burgerbukta, Hornsund
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This is a beautiful fjord with two main glaciers and
beautiful craggy mountains all around you as you
load in your zodiacs and take off for a zodiac ride.
There is no landing here but they do stay out with
the zodiacs for about an hour and a half.
This is a
good area to see polar bears and we did see a bear very
quickly. The naturalists thought it was a young male.
The bear at the closest point was about 200 yards away and
quite magnificent standing on the rocks. He was looking
right at us, it was an awesome sight. Then he started
to walk over the rocks and headed up the glacier. On
a different glacier you could see the tracks of where he
slid down the hill to the water and another zodiac saw this
activity. Of course the water is where the food for the
bears is located so they do stay around the shoreline. .
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Just a few
days ago this bay was solid sea ice but it now in early June
it is breaking up into a passable passage. The zodiac made
its way around the flat ice pieces and I think our driver
was having fun moving in between the ice. The day was
SO perfect, the water completely calm and all the mountains
were reflecting in the water. The mountains remind me
of Antarctica and it is a really beautiful fjord and the
Polar Bear sighting made it very special.
Gasamna,
Hornsund
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. The
expedition staff check out the landing area to
be sure it is bear free and then you can go
ashore in the zodiacs. This is a walk on a
rocky and snowy area where an old whaling
station operated in the early 1900s. There was a
ramshackle hut that one man lived in alone for
four years. I cannot imagine being so isolated
for so many years.
The scenery
was of course beautiful surrounded by mountains.
The geology of the area is interesting and the
naturalists can explain how the area was formed.
There are glaciers in the area and snow covered
mountains. Other than a few arctic terns
nesting there was not a lot of wildlife activity.
The polar bear experts with guns were protecting the
landing area our sacrificial lambs.
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Friday, June
19th, 2009 -
14th
July Glacier and Bird Hills
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We arrived on a perfect day. No
wind, scattered clouds and very calm water.
This is a beautiful spot. The 14th
July Glacier is wide and right at the waters
edge. You can actually walk up on the glacier.
The walk from the landing spot to the foot of
the glacier is about 20 minutes, this is over a
very rocky area with snow and boggy places.
There is a lot of moss in this area. This is
not difficult but extremely uneven and you can
find your self sinking down in the snow or bog
so you must be careful and those with any
walking difficulty would find this difficult.
Once you reach the foot of the glacier it is
another 20 minutes to walk and stand on the
glacier. Some of this is quite steep. The view
from the glacier was great and the area had
black ice. This is where the ice is so
translucent that it picks up the black ground at
the base and the ice looks really black. Quite a
unique thing to see. |
The bird
hills are in the other direction and the hills are
teeming with birds of many species. However they
are very high so you cannot really see the birds very
well except for the noise and activity level of the
nesting birds. In this same area you can usually
see some reindeer and they were in residence during our
visit.
This is a
really nice landing. The combination of the mountains, the
large glacier, green mossy areas and the blue water of the
fjord make a stunning landscape
Blomstrand, Halve
This is a landing all about Granite. A company spent a
lot of money setting up a granite production company in this
area. Unfortunately the granite was not of good
quality and crumbled and the company went bankrupt.
This area has the remains of the huts and a lot of the
equipment left from the granite operation. Entering
this area was very scenic, there is a Russian research
center and a small town directly across from the area where
the ship had its landing. The little town is called New
London and we did not visit the town as we will be
visitinganother small settlement later on in the cruise.
Saturday, June 20th,
2009 - Heading 80 Degrees North
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This morning at 8.00 am we passed 80 degrees North.
The sun was shining the ice was everywhere it was
truly spectacular. We got to North 80 degrees, 10
minutes. There was no wind, not a ripple in the
water and larges pieces of the permanent ice shelf
all around us as the Prince Albert ll edged further
north. There was a walrus on one of the flows but it
was too far to really see. We did at one point have
seal on each side of the ship (they appeared to be
much larger seals here than in Antarctica) and a
pilot whale in front of the ship. A fantastic
morning. |
The Red
Fjord
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As we headed back to the Svalbard Islands the
weather remained beautiful and there was barely a
cloud in the sky. Totally still, all the mountains
were reflecting in the water, icebergs, it was
gorgeous sailing into the Red Fjord. It is called
the Red Fjord as the sand on the beach areas is
actually red. In this fjord you go on a zodiac
ride. We found polar bear tracks all along the
water edge for quite a distance with arctic fox
tracks following. The fox follows the polar bear and
when the polar bear kills and then leaves the scene
the fox scavenges the remains. Timing is so
critical; these were fairly fresh tracks if only we
had been here when the Polar Bear was here. |
Sunday, June 21st
-Smeerenburgoldden
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The landing this morning was to an area that 200
people lived who were engaged in whale blubber
industry. There are the remains of whale blubber
ovens that were still very well preserved. It is
hard to believe that this many people once lived in
this remote spot. It was still a sunny day but it
felt cooler as there was a light wind blowing. |
Magdalena
Fjord
This afternoon we cruised to the Magdalena Fjord. This is
one of the most visited fjords on Spitzbergen island. A huge
glacier is at the head of the fjord and the scenery is
really majestic. A walrus was on an ice flow but a little
too far away to get a good picture.
Monday, June
22nd -
Ahlstrandodden, Van Keulenfjord
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Van Keulenfjord is 35 kilometers into Spitzbergen.
Its inner reaches are rarely visited by tourists,
but the entrance area near Bellsund has very
attractive scenery and tundra that is inviting for
walks of various durations. The south side of the
Van Keulenfjord is part of the South Spitsbergen
National Park.
As we landed
we viewed a huge amount of whale bones dating back to the 16th
century when this area was used for harvesting beluga whales
that used this shallow area to rub themselves on the gravel
and rid their bodies of parasites. As the whales
entered the shallow area they were netted and harvested in
great quantities. |
We took a
walk on the tundra that was really fun and very spongy to
walk on. Certain areas were quite wet so you did have
to be careful it was quite boggy. The flowers were just
beginning to bloom and hot pink saxifrage flowers and yellow
arctic buttercups were seen all over the area. These are
supposed to be in full bloom in early to mid July and give
carpets of color in contrast to the white ice and snow.
The polar bear guards were on duty protecting our perimeter
as we spend about an hour walking the area. During our
walk many varieties of birds were flying over head and
landing on the tundra.
At the
landing spot was a wooden hut that is still used by a
vacationing family. It used to be a trappers hut. The
windows had nails sticking straight out to stop polar bears
from trying to break into the windows as they would
encounter the nails and back off the attack. There
were heavy beams angling out from the building to make it
difficult for the polar bears to push on the sides of the
building. We found this to be an interesting spot to visit.
Bellsund
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This afternoon was a prime area for polar
bears and ice. We did not see any polar bears and
you could tell the guides were a little surprised.
It was obvious that they anticipated a polar bear
sighting.
However it
was still a great days outing. We rode the zodiac around
wonderful ice formations. There are two glaciers here coming
together and pushing each other and the ice is a combination
of the blue ice you often see but with dark areas of gravel
which are quite black from the activity of the two glaciers
colliding. I found this contrast fascinating. This was
different from any glacier I have seen before. Instead
of dropping to the water it was spread out over a huge flat
area with giant pinnacles of ice sticking straight up from
the floor of the glacier. Truly memorable and like
nothing I had ever seen before. This was a great afternoon
zodiac ride. |
Tuesday June
23rd -Poolepynten
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This morning we boarded the zodiacs on another
glorious day and went to the see the walrus. A very
short 3 minute tender ride and we were on shore.
The arctic terns were nesting along the beach and
when you get too close to their eggs they will dive
bomb and attack. The guides held up sticks as they
always go for the highest point. So unscathed we
walked past the nesting turns. It was amazing to see
their activity as the protected their nest sites.
On the way we saw a few walrus at water edge and in
the water and we passed by these fairly quickly to
get to the main group. There were a lot of walrus
all in a big pile of blubber and tusks. Basically
resting after coming ashore tusks and flippers and
big bodies all converged and it was hard to tell one
animal from another. On the edges some stirred,
scratched and generally flopped around. The bear
guide took a few of us upwind not a pretty smell!
This was the first time I have seen walrus in the
wild so I really enjoyed the morning. |
Barentsburg
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The final afternoon landing was at a town called
Barentsburg. This is an active coal mining
operation and the town is totally Russian. It is
like stepping back in time. A depressing town it
would be hard to imagine living here. The local
families put on a Russian folk show and these were
not professional entertainers just inhabitants of
the town. It lasted about 30 minutes and was pretty
fascinating. HUGE spotlights that were probably last
seen in the USA about 20 or 30 years ago. Flashing
Christmas lights were a highlight of the stage set.
Just to see the effort that they put into the
performance it was charming. There were a few items
for sale nothing very significant. We walked the
town and visited the tiny church and the hotel. It
was an interesting stop just to see a town like this
actually exists. I would suggest going ashore, it
does not take much time and I enjoyed seeing this
place. |
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